Our 350 chevy V8 Powered 1969 VW Beetle Hot Rod Project
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v8 vw beetle sitting outside

We had a nice sunny day so I pushed the V8 beetle outside for an updated shot before I started messing with the ford explorer 8.8" rear end I just got.

For a rear end I got a locking 4.10 gear ratio 8.8" rear end with disc brakes off of a 97 explorer. Its a pretty common swap for V8 s10s and the jeep guys do it quite a bit too. The 8.8 rear ends are supposed to be pretty darn tuff, plus I'll be upgrading to rear disc brakes too, and I got it for $150 delivered to me at work.
I figure with the 29" tires I'm putting on the back, and my 2004r trans with .67 4th w/od and the 4.10 rear end that should give me a pretty decent cruising rpm of a little over 2000rpm.

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Here is the ford 8.8" rear end and I also go the leaf springs and sway bar with it. Of course I don't need the leaf springs, maybe I can sell them on craigslist for like $20, and I am going to try to stick with the s10 rear sway bar I got because it is the ZQ8 sway bar and beefier than the explorer sway bar.

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Next I cut the U bolts so I could pull off the leaf springs and I also pulled of the sway bar, and then got it up where I could work on it easier.

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Just another view:

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

I'm planning on pulled on the calipers, rotors, brake lines, emergency brakes, backing plates, etc, etc, etc and I'll clean up the rear end, paint it with some master series silver, then probably some roll on bed liner like I'm doing on the frame.

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Then I'll put in new bearings and seals, along with new calipers, rotors, lines ,etc....

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Here is the ID tag on the rear end. the 4L10 number is what your looking for, that lets you know its a locking 4.10 rear end, and I believe the 8.8 rear ends on the 1995 explorers and up are all disc brakes.

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Here I started tearing down the rear end, I started with the drivers side, I pulled off the caliper and the rotor was falling off. I figured I got lucky because it can be a real pain to convince them that they want to come off some times. The passenger side rotor on the other hand was a real pain to get it. It was really stuck on there, After lots of WD40, hammering and some heat from a torch it came off, but it put up a good fight.

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

RIght now I'm planning on getting the rear end finished then get it under the car. Then I'll be able to get my drive line angle figured out, make my transmission crossmember, get my engine mounts welded in their final places, etc. Then I'll be able to move onto the floor of the body that way I can figure out locations for body mounts. Then after I get the body mounts figured out and welded to the chassis I'll be able to finish sand blasting, and undercoating it, etc....

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

I pulled off the diff. cover and drained the oil in the rear end. The oil actually looked pretty clean, and there were no big chunks in the oil

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

After pulling the cover off it is defiantly a 4.10 rear end:

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Here you can see that there is just a tad bit of wear on the gears, but nothing major:

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Being that this is a C clip rear end to pull out the axle shafts you need to loosen this bolt that holds the pinion shaft in. Once you slide the pinion shaft out of the way you can push each axle in a little bit and slide off the c clips. I've herd that it is pretty common for these little bolts to be broken on in these 8.8" rear ends. Luckly mine wasn't broke, although it was very tight, so I'd recomend using a 6 point socket or box end wrench to break it loose.... I think its 8mm if I remember correctly:

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Here are the little C clips that you'll pull out to get the axles loose:

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

I forgot to take a picture of the axles after I pulled them out, but here they are wrapped up in garbage bags later on...... (SSHHHH don't tell my wife I "borrowed" some of her fancy garbage bags ;) )

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Then I'm left with pretty much just the E-brakes and backing plates to remove:

v8 bettle chassis getting undercoated with master series and hurculiner

Here I got the E-brakes removed, Next will be the backing plates, and then the other side of the axle. I will also be replacing the both wheel seals and bearings, and probably will throw a new pinion seal in also, because it looks like it was leaking just a tad bit.......



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